Men's Winter Coats: Wax, Quilted, Wool or a Raincoat
On the seafront at Alum Chine in November the wind comes straight off the water, and it finds every gap a thin jacket leaves. Most men's winter coats fall down somewhere: rain getting in at the collar, wind through a thin shell, or too much heat the moment you step indoors. Pick the coat for the weather you actually walk in, and the rest is detail. Our coats and jackets this autumn cover four kinds: waxed, quilted, tailored wool and a proper raincoat.
At a glance
- Wax cotton for country walks and showers.
- A quilted jacket is the everyday coat for most of the winter.
- Tailored wool goes over a suit or a smart jacket.
- A lined raincoat is the one for a wet week.
- Try a coat on over the thickest thing you will wear under it.
- Wax: for walking
- Quilted: for every day
- Wool: over tailoring
- A raincoat for the wet weeks
- Sizing a winter coat
Wax: for walking
Waxed cotton shrugs off a shower and softens with every winter you wear it. The Ribble is ours, in olive, with a corduroy collar, patch pockets plus handwarmers, and a quilted lining with a geometric pattern. It is built for the walk along the cliff top or a day in the New Forest, and it looks better scuffed than new.
Underneath, a check shirt and a knit. On top, if you like, a wax cap. The coat wants re-proofing every season or two, which is twenty minutes with a tin of wax and an old cloth.
Quilted: for every day
A quilted jacket is the coat most men wear most days between October and March. It is light, it packs warmth into a thin layer, and it goes over a jumper without making you look like you are off up a mountain.
The Giordano Palermo is cut short, sits at the hip and keeps its shape when you hang it up, in a chocolate brown that suits far more men than black does. The corduroy collar stops it looking like sportswear. The Douglas Kemp, in black or navy, is smarter, with a full zip and a diagonal chest panel. If a full coat is too much for the car and the office, a padded gilet like the Giordano Gabriel keeps the core warm and leaves the arms free over a jumper.
Wool: over tailoring
Anything worn over a suit or a blazer needs length and structure, and that means a tailored wool coat. The Daniel Grahame Brogan is a wool-rich charcoal grey with a covered zip front and a soft quilted lining. It covers the jacket underneath completely, which is the test: a coat that stops above the hem of your blazer will always look borrowed.
For a navy alternative, the Skopes Faulkner is in a soft Mouflon wool with a funnel neck. The Douglas Arden has a removable padded gilet inside, so it works through autumn and then winter proper. The rest of the Daniel Grahame range is in the shop alongside it.
A raincoat for the wet weeks
Bournemouth gets its share of grey weeks where it never quite stops. The Skopes Paddock is a single-breasted navy raincoat in a stretch fabric with a quilted lining, horn-effect buttons and button cuffs to keep the rain out of your sleeves. It is long enough to cover a jacket and smart enough for the office. On a dry day it does the job of a light overcoat.
Sizing a winter coat
Bring the thickest layer you plan to wear under it, or try one of ours on with it. A coat that fits over a shirt in October can be tight over a chunky knit by January.
- Arms forward without the back pulling across the shoulders
- Sleeves covering your shirt cuff completely
- Length past the hem of whatever you wear underneath
- Collar sitting flat when open and closing comfortably when up
All of it is on the shop floor at 30 Seamoor Road, Westbourne. The sizes on coats run differently between brands, so try two and let the mirror decide. Layers to go underneath are a few steps away in knitwear and overshirts.
Frequently asked questions
What type of winter coat should a man buy?
Start with how you spend your winters. For country walks and showery weather, a waxed cotton jacket is hard to beat. For everyday wear around town, a quilted jacket gives warmth without bulk. If you wear a suit or blazer, you need a tailored wool coat long enough to cover the jacket. A lined raincoat is worth having if you walk or commute in the wet. Most men end up owning two of these, not all four.
How should a men's winter coat fit?
Try it on over the thickest layer you plan to wear underneath. You should be able to reach forward without the back pulling tight across the shoulders, and the sleeves should cover your shirt cuff. The coat should be longer than anything worn under it, especially a blazer or suit jacket. If it fits well over a shirt but strains over a jumper, go up a size.
Are wax jackets waterproof?
A waxed cotton jacket is highly water resistant rather than fully waterproof. The wax coating makes rain bead and run off, so it copes well with showers and drizzle, and the cotton stays breathable. The wax wears thin over time, especially at the shoulders and cuffs, so re-proof the jacket every season or two with a tin of dressing to keep it shedding water properly.
What coat goes over a suit?
A tailored wool or wool-blend overcoat, long enough to cover the suit jacket completely. A coat that stops above the hem of the jacket underneath always looks wrong. Charcoal, navy and black are the safest colours because they work with almost any suit. A smart single-breasted raincoat also works over tailoring in wet weather. Avoid short quilted or casual jackets over a suit.
Where can I buy a men's winter coat in Bournemouth?
Baks Menswear is at 30 Seamoor Road in Westbourne, a few minutes west of Bournemouth town centre. We carry wax jackets, quilted jackets, tailored wool coats and raincoats from brands including Daniel Grahame, Douglas, Giordano and Skopes. The shop is open Monday to Saturday, 10am to 5.30pm, with no appointment needed. Call 01202 751008 if you would like us to check a size before you visit.
